Aloha again!
- Andrea
- Aug 31, 2024
- 29 min read
Updated: Jan 6
A little bit of background📝
Second time to Hawaii! Read here for the post about my first visit in 2010, to Maui to present at a conference with a bonus few post-conference days on Oahu.
My second Hawaiian experience was in April 2013, where we had two weeks to explore Oahu and an overnight sojourn to the Big Island. When I say "we", I mean the four of us on a family holiday to celebrate 20th wedding anniversary. Note: WED is the acronym I will use in this post refer to my family, made from the initials of their first names.
I've structured this post around the key things we did while in Hawaii, rather than my usual chronological journal. I hope the post serves as an inspiration to visit Hawaii and journey beyond Waikiki Beach. There's so much to see and experience!
Welcome to Hawaii!🪷
We flew with Hawaiian Airlines from Brisbane to Honolulu. The airline had only started flying that route the year before, in 2012. I wrote this post in 2024 and I can't recall much about the flight other than being grateful that flying time from Australia to Hawaii is only about 10 hours. Below is a map that gives some perspective on our journey from Brisbane to Honolulu. I've marked on the second map the two islands that we visited, Oahu and the Big Island.
These were our first impressions of Hawaii as we moved through Border Security , collected our hire car, and spent the first little while getting used to the right hand drive. I remember thinking that it's a different experience when arriving somewhere previously visited. I was excited for what we had planned for our two weeks, but at the same time, Hawaii felt familiar.
Waimanalo Beach⛱️
We had booked a lanai in Waimanalo, away from the crowds and resorts in Waikiki. I booked the place through HomeAway, but I don't think that site exists these days, or it has been subsumed by something else. Stayz, perhaps? Vrbo? Anyway, the accommodation was perfect for us in size and amenities, and super close to the beach. The owners live on the property at the front and they were warm and welcoming. I remember they left us a food basket and some Easter eggs for the kids.
We loved staying in the little cottage. Our holiday felt truly like a family experience and much less impersonal than staying in a hotel. That said, the guy who saw us through Border Security seemed puzzled that we were staying in Waimanalo. He said, "no one stays there!" OK, mate, whatever. I rather like that we do things that aren't the norm!
Waimanalo is a small windward community near the eastern end of Oahu. The beach is 9km long, the longest stretch of sandy shoreline on Oahu. We absolutely loved the peace and quiet. Access to a stunning beach that wasn't crowded with people was so cool. Check out my beautiful shots of Waimanalo Beach, sans people.
The beach deserves a second collage of shots, as it is simply stunning. Note that the big waves in Hawaii that draw in the crowds for surfing competitions are in winter. The ocean is pretty flat otherwise.
The kids enjoyed swimming at Waimanalo, too. The owners of the lanai supplied beach towels and swimming stuff. We were often the only people at the beach most of the time and it was incredible to have it all to ourselves.
Fun factsℹ️ ️
The first prisoner of war taken by US forces during WW2 was captured on December 8, 1941 on Waimanalo Beach, the day after the Pearl Harbour attacks. The Anderson Estate that was featured in the original TV series Magnum PI is at Waimanalo.
The shots below give a good indication of how our proximity to the beach. The place we stayed in is just up from the two tall palm trees behind me on the right in the main shot. The mountain backdrop is stunning as well. There is a park nearby where we went to get in some baseball practice as our son, D, was super into the sport at the time [bottom left and middle shots].
Travel tips 🌏
I can't rate Waimanalo highly enough as a place to stay and enjoy the beach, especially if you like to be away from crowds and prefer a more authentic experience to hotels. Honestly, Waikiki Beach is prime real estate and it can be a challenge to find your own piece of the sand. We live in Queensland and close to some beautiful beaches and the Waikiki of our own at Surfer's Paradise. We wanted to feel more connected to Hawaii so we stayed at Waimanalo and there are no hotels there. I'd also recommend hiring a car if you want to explore the island and experience more than just Waikiki beach and the shops. It's not really easy to get around the island without a car.
Pali lookout🌴
One of the first things we did to take advantage of the hire car was drive up to the Nu'uanu Pali Lookout. The Lookout is only a few kilometres from Downtown Honolulu up the Pali Highway. It provides beautiful panoramic views of the Ko'olau Cliffs and Windward Coast. The Lookout not only has views, it is also historically significant as the site where King Kamehameha I won a fierce battle in 1795 to unite Oahu under one rule. The battle claimed hundreds of soldiers' lives, many of whom were forced off the sheer cliffs to their deaths.
Pearl Harbour🪖
I wrote about the Pearl Harbour National Memorial in my 2010 post as I was fortunate enough to visit the museum as part of an island tour I did during the couple of days I had on Oahu after the Maui conference. I only had a short time on my first visit to wander around the main complex and take the launch out to the Memorial. This time, we purchased a passport ticket and spent the whole day at the museum. The passport includes launch tickets to visit the USS Arizona Memorial, and admission to the Battleship Missouri, USS Bowfin, and the Pearl Harbour Aviation Museum, as well as the Visitor Centre.
We visited the USS Missouri first. The battleship was built for the US Navy in World War II, participating in the Battles of Iwo Jima and Okinawa, and serving in the Korean War. The Missouri was recommissioned in 1984 and completely modernised, serving in Operation Desert Storm in 1991 before being decommissioned again in 1992. It became a museum at Pearl Harbour in 1998.
Interestingly, the ship was placed well away from the Arizona memorial to ensure that the explosion and sinking of the Arizona during the attack on Pearl Harbour on 7 December 1941 remains the key landmark of the museum. The idea is that the Missouri's bow that faces the Arizona is so placed to watch over the remains of those interred in the hull.
The ship is a fascinating part of the museum as there is so much of it that is accessible to the public. The kids enjoyed exploring the vessel as it's huge - 270m long - and has four large engines and nine giant guns.
It's also pretty cool to go below deck and get a feel for what life was like for the sailors, even with the modern refurbishment. We even found a room with D's name on it!
The Missouri has huge historical significance and was listed on the National Register of Historic Places on 14 May 1971. The quarterdeck was the site of the signing of the Instrument of Surrender by the Japanese that ended World War II.
I highly recommend that including the Missouri when visiting the Pearl Harbour National Memorial. It's worth getting out to Ford Island to explore the ship and listen to the tour guide's explanation of the signing of the surrender document.
The other vessel that can be explored is the USS Bowfin. The submarine was launched in 1942 and eventually decommissioned in 1971 after being recommissioned during the Korean War. It's been a museum at Pearl Harbour since 1981.
Like the Missouri, it is possible to go down inside the Bowfin. It's a rather unique experience, walking through the bowels of th vessel and having a taste of what it must be like to serve on a submarine. As my photos show, it's obviously a very tight space!
While it's super cool to go down inside the submarine and feel how cramped it is, the Bowfin also offers wonderful views of the Missouri and the Arizona memorial. Pretty nifty shots, right?
The whole Memorial experience is nicely done, I think, and suitably respectful of what it commemorates. There is a massive gift shop at the Visitor Centre, as one would expect, and a little bit of touristy stuff, as the below shot shows.
The Pearl Harbour National Memorial is busy, but the process for visiting the USS Arizona Memorial is extremely well organised. It is respectful, I think, of the historical significance of the site and the memories of those who lost their lives during the Pearl Harbour attack. Only a set number of people are allowed out onto the memorial at once. Visitors are issued a ticket with a launch departure time. Once the next group arrives, the previous one has to leave the memorial. There's plenty of time to explore the memorial before the launch departs.
I was impressed with our kids that day as they treated the whole visit with the respect it deserves and listened with interest to the commentary on the USS Missouri. They explored the battleship and submarine with excitement but behaved appropriately, especially since it was a long day for them.
We finished our visit to Pearl Harbour at the Pacific Aviation Museum, housed in an authentic World War II hangar on the site of Pearl Harbour attack. The museum is filled with aircraft, exhibits and artifacts that add to the overall museum experience.
We finished off the day with a visit to the Dole Pineapple Plantation as it's located near the Pearl Harbour Museum. The weather had packed it in a bit by then but we still had a ball at the somewhat kitschy tourist attraction.
The plantation opened as a tourist attraction in 1989 on the site of the original 1950 pineapple fruit stand. We didn't ride the Pineapple Express Train but we did explore the maze and the country store. The maze is actually kind of awesome. It's the largest maze in the world, stretching over 1.2 hectares with 4km of paths.
I had bought Pearl Harbour stuff on my first visit in 2010, so this time I bought this cool retro artwork. It's made of tin! Love it.
Koko Crater Trail🥾
The next bits of this post document the hikes that we did on Oahu. If you're into hiking and love a challenge, I highly recommend tackling the Koko Crater trail. The mountain can be seen from the Kalaianaoli Highway south of Waikiki. It's where the US military created a lookout bunker during World War II and built a railway on the extinct volcano to haul supplies to the top.
It's a 2.4km climb to the top, up 1048 steps. I've seen the hike described variously as easy and medium and hard. I vote for the hard! The climb to the top IS one of the hardest physical things I have done to date.
Travel tip🌏
The trail begins behind a baseball field at Koko Head Park. Parking is free, but it is quite popular so it's best to get there early if you want to avoid the crowds. There's nothing but a car park at the bottom of the mountain so be sure to take plenty of water.
Not only are there a lot of stairs up to the top, they are made from old railroad tracks that the military once used to transport equipment and supplies to the pillbox bunkers on top of the crater. The hike starts off OK, but gets progressively steeper until the end bit that is a killer [when calves are burning badly!]. There's quite a bit of loose dirt and the sleepers are not easy to walk up and down.
At one stage there is a flat section that acts as a bridge, with a 12m drop below. There's a platform of sorts to cross, but there's no railing and it doesn't look terribly stable. I sort of crawled over the bridge on my hands and knees in a very inglorious manoeuvre as my balance is terrible.
We struggled a bit to get to the top, except for D who was super fit from all the baseball he played at the time and practically ran up. I can still remember the tough last bit that is very steep. All that said, it was completely worth the burn for the views at 365m.
It might sound naff, but I'm super proud of us all for making it to the top. As someone with limited physical abilities, I still can't believe that I did it. Mind you, the walk back down was almost harder than the one to the top. My thighs were burning by the end of it!
The below photos show our after-hike refuel. We absolutely gave Yogurtland a workout while we were on the island. That stuff is delicious!
Lanikai🌴
Another hike that we did that I highly recommend is the Lanikai Pillboxes. The hike is a ridge trail in Kailua on the east of Oahu that affords magnificent views of Lanikai Beach from the top. It's 2.6km to an elevation of 187m.
The hike begins in the suburban streets of Kailua opposite the Mid Pacific Country Club where it's just a matter of finding a park out of the way of the residential homes. E and D are at the start of the trail in the top left hand photo below.
The trailhead is marked but it's not really a trail. It's more a case of following dirt paths and the natural shape of Ka'iwa Ridge. The paths aren't too hard to follow but there are a few rock walls and a bit of climbing required. I also found it a bit slippery. The pillboxes are cool, though, and there are several to explore where the observation posts were erected during the Second World War. The pillboxes can be seen in the above collection and also below in the third Lanikai collage.
As with the Koko hike, the views are pretty spectacular at the top. The top in this instance provides views of the Ko'olau Mountain Range, Lanikai beach, and the two islands - Mokulua Islands, or 'The Mokes' - that are the focal point for the ocean views.
I can't compare the Lanikai hike to Koko Head as they are both spectacular and special in their own way. Lanikai is nowhere near as hard as Koko but the views are just as beautiful. They truly allow for an appreciation of the magnificence of Hawaii's landscapes. Koko has incredible views as well, but it stands out to me for the endurance required to get to the top.
Diamond Head💎
The Diamond Head Hike is probably the most popular hike on Oahu. You can see from my photos below that it was quite crowded when we went and I expect that's how it is most of the time. The hike, part of the national park, is properly set up for tourists and there is an entrance and parking fee. The trail is also only 10km southeast of Honolulu.
The unique shape of Diamond Head [Le'ahi] that can be seen from Waikiki beach sits near the eastern edge of the coastline. That's Diamond Head, in the background of the below shot, taken from Waikiki.
The national park covers 192 hectares, including the interior and outer slopes of the crater that was formed around 300 000 years ago during a single eruption. The trail to the top was built in 1908 as part of Oahu's coastal defence system. There is a concrete walkway at one point that was built to reduce erosion shifts and there are multiple switchbacks up the slope of the crater's interior.
As with the other two hikes we did, the views are amazing at the top. Diamond Head affords one of the best views of Waikiki with the beach and countryside as surroundings. Of the three hikes we did, Diamond Head was definitely the easiest physically. Even though it's described as steep, the proper pathways and stairs make it an easier climb. It's a 2.4km round trip and ascends 171 metres.
Manoa Falls Trail💦
While I'm writing about hikes, I'll mention our adventure at Manoa Falls. Manoa is quite close to the centre of Honolulu and it's a short walk to the Falls themselves. There's no charge to do the hike but there is a small charge to park in one of the nearby lots, or there's parking on the surrounding neighbourhood streets a few minutes' walk away.
We were a little disappointed in the waterfall, I have to admit. It is said to be 46 metres and one of the tallest on the island, but as our photos show, it wasn't very substantial, despite recent rain. The lushness of the dense rainforest was the main attraction. It was stunning!
The below photos show why Manoa was memorable beyond the beautiful surroundings. It was the mud! The mud is something we will always remember. Information on the Falls is clear about the possibility of the trail being muddy, but we weren't prepared for the extent of it. We slipped and slid our way up to the falls, determined to get there in the end. For someone with terrible balance, though, it was quite a tough trek. I still can't believe that we got to the falls as it was almost harder than the Koko hike, but for completely different reasons!
D gave up when it got super muddy as he'd just bought fancy new shoes a few days earlier and WAS NOT IMPRESSED that they were all muddy. Manoa mud aftermath: We battled Friday afternoon traffic the following week to drive back out to the shopping outlet to replace his ruined shoes...
Halona Blowhole🐳
There are so many beautiful natural wonders on Oahu and we explored as many of them as we could fit into our time on the island. Again, having a car made this exploration possible.
One of most popular natural attractions is the Halona blowhole. It was created thousands of years ago when molten lava tubes were formed from volcanic eruptions. Halona means lookout in Hawaiian and it is possible to watch the magnificence of the blowhole and take in the views of the coastline from the lookout. The ocean water shoots up to 9 metres in the air from a kind of cave formed out of the cliff's rocks. The blowhole is mesmerising and I could watch it for hours. I find the ocean equal parts fascinating and terrifying.
Here we are at the lookout. It's free to park at the lookout and take in the magnificent blowhole and views. Windy days are best, and when the tide is high, as the ocean breeze sends the waves hurtling to the shore where sea spray is then shot high into the air through the cave formed out of rock on the shoreline.
The blow hole is only a 20-minute drive outside of Waikiki along the Kalaniana'ole Highway, past Hanauma Bay and Koko Head.
The cove on the left hand side of the below shot is Halona Beach Cove, known locally as Eternity Beach for the famous love scene in the 1953 film, From here to eternity, with Deborah Kerr and Burt Lancaster. The beach has also featured in Pirates of the Carribean, 50 first dates and Jurassic World: Fallen kingdom.
Makapu'u Point and lighthouse🔦
Not far from the blow hole is the Makapu'u Point trail, with spectacular views of Oahu's southeastern coastline, including Koko Head. This is the windward side of the island where offshore islets and seabirds can be seen from the trail. Migrating humpback whales can sometimes be spotted from November to May.
I love lighthouses 💞. Makapu'u was built in 1909 and it sits majestically on the point, with its red roof a beautiful contrast to the ocean and surrounds. The lighthouse is off limits but there's a lovely view of it from the trail.
The park and trailhead are off the Kalaniana'ole Highway at the southeastern-most point of the island. There's free parking at the trailhead. The walk is a 3.2km hike round trip to a height of 152 metres to the lookout. As my photos show, the trail is mostly hard-surfaced and it's not a difficult climb. It's quite exposed, though, and I imagine it would be hot in summer.
Hanauma Bay🤿
Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve is a beautiful beach and marine ecosystem formed within a volcanic cone on the southeastern side of the island. The bay is protected by vertical crater walls and a peripheral reef. This protection keeps the water calm so it's a great spot for families for swimming and for snorkelling.
The Nature Preserve was declared a protected marine life conservation park in 1967. All visitors are required to watch a 9-minute video on park preservation and safety rules as part of the conservation program for the marine ecosystem.
There's an entrance fee, at the time of writing $25USD, but it's wonderful to know that the park can be enjoyed while preservation is being taken seriously. There's a snack bar and gift shop on the upper level and the dinky little tram down to the beach is included in the entry fee. We walked down and back, though!
We had a lovely time at Hanauma Bay and WED swam and snorkelled while I sat on the beach and relaxed. The views from the upper level are gorgeous and it's kind of cool to share the beach with giant palm trees.
Punchbowl🪦
The National Memorial Cemetery of the Pacific is located in Honolulu. It might seem an odd addition to a travel itinerary but I have a fascination with cemeteries, especially those with historical significance and stunning settings. Punchbowl, the informal name of the cemetery, sits in an extinct volcano formed 75 to 100 000 years ago. The crater was formed after hot lava was ejected through cracks in the old coral reefs that extended from the nearby mountains at the time. The Hawaiian name, Puowaina, means Hill of sacrifice. The crater was once an altar where human sacrifices were offered to pagan gods. During Kamehameha the Great's reign, two cannons were mounted at the rim to welcome distinguished arrivals and signify important occasions. At the end of WW2, tunnels were dug through the crater's rim for the placement of shore batteries.
The pathway shown in the top left photo above is lined with a variety of memorials that have been donated by governments and organisations to honour American veterans. The grounds are just beautiful and a fitting resting place for the fallen.
The main memorial is shown in the below collection. On either side of the grand stairs leading to the memorial [left hand photo below] are Eight Courts of the Missing, on which are inscribed the names of the 18 095 American World War II missing from the Pacific, and 8210 American missing from the Korean War. Two half courts have been added at the foot of the staircase that contain the names of 2504 Americans missing from the Vietnam War.
At the top of the stairs is a chapel flanked by galleries containing mosaic maps and descriptions of the achievements of the American armed forces in the central and south Pacific regions and in Korea.
More than 5 million people visit the cemetery each year. Even if cemeteries and military history aren't your jam, it's worth a visit for the fab panoramic views of Honolulu from the crater's rim, as these photos show, and for a wander around the beautiful grounds.
Here we are at the viewing area on the crater's rim. The Terrace is an expansive space that affords fabulous views of Honolulu from multiple angles. It can be a bit windy, though, as my photos show!
Honolulu🌺
If you are wondering if we actually set foot in downtown Honolulu, the answer is yes! Honestly, though, it's the least interesting part of Oahu. The city is quite busy and touristy and similar to Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coast near where we live.
One of the main attractions is the International Marketplace, a shopping and restaurant hub that's unashamedly touristy, as the below photos show.
We had lunch at the Marketplace. Look at the food! So American! I couldn't imagine eating a plate of food like that these days...
We had a poke around the shops and bought touristy stuff. E had a henna tattoo done, a precursor to the ACTUAL tattoos she has now!
ABC Stores are everywhere in Hawaii. They are super nifty as they stock basic food and pharmacy items and a bunch of cool souvenirs. I bought this hat, and the little shell bottle [see earlier in this post]. I wear the hat when I go walking, even all these years later.
We also had a look around the US Army Museum at Fort DeRussy. The museum was established in 1976 and is housed inside Battery Randolph, a former coast artillery fortification that mounted two 35cm disappearing rifled guns.
Below are some shots of Waikiki Beach, of course a must-see even if it's not the best beach on the island in my view. Diamond Head can be seen in the background. That the beach is framed by the Head is one of the best things about it. My impression from my first visit in 2010 remained the same - Waikiki is not as nice as the beaches we have in Australia and I think it's generally a bit overhyped. The kids were underwhelmed as well!
The most vivid and lasting memory we have of Honolulu is the gorgeous sunset and spectacular fireworks we experienced on our last night of the trip. The Hilton Hotel hosts fireworks from the patch of beach at the back of the hotel. The hotel complex is huge, with shops and restaurants as well as the accommodation. As the below photo shows, there's quite a crowd for the fireworks display.
As the sun was setting, we wandered along the beachfront near the hotel and then found our spot to wait for the fireworks to begin. There's quite a party atmosphere at this stage of the evening.
The precursor to the fireworks is the magnificent sunset. We were just chilling, waiting for the fireworks to start, when we were treated to an absolutely stunning sunset. I absolutely love sunsets in pretty places! The below shots go some way to capture our magical experience that night.
It was worth sticking around for the fireworks. They are super cool. It's lovely that anyone can sit on the beach at the Hilton and enjoy the display. You don't have to be a guest at the hotel.
Earlier, we had dinner at the Wailana Coffee House, just across the road from the Hilton. I'd been there during my visit in 2010 as my hotel was close by. I just had to take WED there as it's iconic Hawaii, with its loud carpet and throwback meals. The restaurant was a popular spot for decades until it closed in 2018. I read recently that it's going to be converted into an ABC Store. ABC is a massive convenience chain in Hawaii that sells everything you can possibly imagine, including Hawaiian apparel and gifts. The store is cool and all, but losing the nostalgic experience that the coffee house offers is kind of sad.
What a way to end our two-week adventure! That is a sunset I will never forget.
H50 spotting👮🏼
At the time of our visit in 2013, the reboot of Hawaii 50 was in full swing, starring Australian actor, Alex O'Loughlin, in the title role. We watched the first few seasons and knew of the filming locations, many of which are iconic landmarks on the island.
The Aloha Tower Marketplace and Liliha Bakery were often featured in the show. Liliha is an iconic Hawaiian bakery, with four other locations besides the original one that we shopped at on Kuakini Street. The bakery has been in operation since 1950. Yum!
The Tower is a retired lighthouse, standing 50 metres tall, that first opened in 1926 at Pier 9 of Honolulu Harbour. The lighthouse was for decades the tallest building on the island. It was placed under control of the US Navy after the Pearl Harbour attacks and the beacon was shut off and the building painted in camouflage to minimise detection. Today it is a shopping centre, with eateries and spaces for community gatherings. We sat on the pier eating our delicious Liliha bakery treats, as seen in the shots above.
While we were out driving one day, we spotted signs that indicated H50 filming was taking place. That's E and me in the top right hand shot below at the site where all the equipment sat. The other photos show where we sneaked a peek at some filming. The guy in the blue shirt in the bottom left hand shot is Ian Anthony Dale, who played Adam Nakamori on the show. He spotted us in the distance and gave us a wave. Cool! The bottom right hand shot is of Treat Williams, whom we watched filming an evening scene along with a car chase down a city street.
The final nod to H50 was our visit to the Supreme Court of Hawaii buildings, featured in the show's opening credits and in numerous scenes. The most recognisable statue of King Kamehameha in Hawaii stands in front of the buildings, dedicated in 1883.
The North Shore🏄🏼♀️
We spent a lovely day exploring the North Shore of Oahu. Again, if you have a car I highly recommend venturing beyond Honolulu and enjoying the beautiful natural landscapes of the island.
The North Shore is famous for the winter surfing competitions as the big waves swell between November and February. We were there in April so not the right time of year for the waves. But still, look at how pretty it is, and so peaceful!
The North Shore is about an hour's drive from Waikiki and there are lots of places to check out in the region. The main town is Hale'iwa, famous for surfing, arts and crafts, and shave ice. There's a real laid-back, artsy kind of vibe to the place.
We tried some shave ice, of course! It's very sweet, but a fun thing to do to get into the spirit of things.
I bought this gorgeous artwork by a local artist at Hale'iwa. The print was more than my usual memento expense, but I just loved it. The artwork still hangs on my wall today.
These photos are my most treasured of our day on the North Shore. The kids are adults as I write this post, so I love returning to these photos as a reminder of childhood times and simple pleasures.
La'ie Point💙
One of the stunning sights to see on the North Shore is La'ie Point State Wayside, featuring the iconic La'ie Point Needle, a unique volcanic rock formation seen in the below photos.
The point has cultural significance, too, as the place where legend says the goddess Hi'iaka, sister of the volcano goddess Pele, threw the remains of the monster Kuiniolo into the sea.
The Point is a beautiful part of the island, with the drama of the waves crashing on the rocks and the needle rising to create a fascinating silhouette against the ocean backdrop. The Point is easily accessed from the Kamehameha Highway although parking is limited.
Kualoa Ranch🦖
Kualoa Ranch is on the eastern side of the island. The ranch is a 1618 hectare nature preserve incorporating three separate valleys. It was established in 1850 and is a sacred area of battlegrounds and traditional villages.
These days, there are a bunch of activities available on the Ranch, including horseback riding, ATV tours, ziplining, and movie tours. Over 200 television shows and movies have been filmed in the area, most notably Jurassic Park, 50 first dates, King Kong, and Godzilla. OK, so it's super touristy, but we did a tour and we had a blast. The tour is basically a drive around the island, on the bus shown in the below shot, to look at film sites, with a few stops along the way.
We could recognise the scenery from television shows and films that have been filmed in Hawaii, especially Lost and Hawaii 50. The highlights for us were the Jurassic Park scenes. In the collage below the kids and I are posing by the giant log from the film that the main characters hid behind while the dinosaurs ran across the open field. Cool!
Despite the tourist vibe, the Ranch is a beautiful place. It's quite expensive to do the tours and activities so something to consider in trip planning. Fun, though! [At the time of writing, the 90-minute tour we did is $60USD for adults and $40USD for children under 12.]
Food and shopping 🍟🛍️
At the time of our visit, the US and Australian dollars were of equal value and while food on the island was expensive, shopping wasn't. We gave the kids a chunk of money each and they had a ball spending on it clothes and shoes as they were cheaper than at home back then. My recommendation for the best shopping is the Waikele Outlet, about an hour out of the city.
When I look back at my photos, it seems that food featured heavily. That's kind of weird for us as we're not usually into food! The kids were fascinated by the massive meals, the Americana - peanut butter and jelly - and all the varieties of Ben & Jerry's ice cream that we couldn't get at home [and the low cost of the tubs compared with what we paid]. So...here is a collage dedicated to food, and the one and only time on all my travels where we ate it up!
We did shop at local supermarkets many times over the two weeks and we ate at the lanai a lot. It wasn't always Americana!
Also, one of my favourite things to do in new places is poke around the supermarkets. They are a fascinating insight into life in the place, especially American supermarkets where everything is on a grand scale.
A lovely opportunity to meet up 💞
This is me with Sage, a remarkable woman from northern California I met on an online forum who shares our interest in Hawaii. We met up with Sage twice, and her partner and son, while we were in Hawaii, once on the North Shore and at a restaurant in Lanikai. It was such an awesome experience to meet Sage in person.
Below is a map I have created to show all the places we experienced on Oahu. To give an idea of perspective, it's only 52km and an hour's drive from Honolulu up to the top of the island at La'ie Point. Where we stayed at Waimanalo Beach is only 24km east of Honolulu. I've said it a few times in this post, but having a car is the best way to explore Oahu. There are public buses and guided tours, but a car gives the most freedom to move around and the roads and highways are in good shape. We wouldn't have done anywhere near as much as we did in two weeks without a car.
Oahu, you sure are pretty!
The Big Island🌋
We planned an overnight visit to the Big Island to add something special to our trip. We visited on our actual 20th wedding anniversary 💖. The Big Island has a completely different vibe to Oahu as it's less touristy and busy. The main attraction is the natural landscape, including the active volcanoes. It's definitely worth a visit if for a deeper experience of Hawaii's magnificent natural wonders.
Here's a map of our Big Island wanderings. We took an early flight from Honolulu and stayed overnight, flying back late the following evening. By no means exhaustive, our almost two-days on the Island gave us some insight into its beauty. We experienced the two Big Ticket items: the volcano and the black sand beach.
We flew in and out of Hilo, on the eastern side of the island, making our way north first to Akaka Falls then all the way down to the bottom of the island to Punalu'u, the black sand beach. Then we headed north again, into the middle of the island to the Volcanoes National Park. We stayed overnight in Kailua-Kona, on the western side of the island, then drove to the northern tip the next morning and back down to Hilo.
To give some perspective, it is 92km from Hilo to Punalu'u at the bottom of the island. The Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is 47km from Hilo. From bottom to top is around 200km and from east [Hilo] to west [Kona] around 125km.
The flight from Honolulu to Hilo on the eastern side of the island is less than an hour on a tiny plane that is buffeted about by the winds between the islands. The views of the island are pretty cool as the plane approaches.
We hired a car as the island is big [hence the name The Big Island, when it's official name is Hawaii Island] and there are lots of different geological features to explore. These shots show some of the unspoilt scenery that we enjoyed after first leaving the airport and heading north. Pretty, right?
We'd had an early start so we found a local bakery for some nourishment. Ishigo's pretty much sums up the vibe of the island. Super chilled.
The stunning Akaka Falls Park was next on our itinerary. The park is 18km north of Hilo, at the end of Akaka Falls Road. We found it easily enough and there was hardly anyone there when we visited. The only fee is a $5USD parking charge, at the time of writing.
Akaka, Hawaii's most famous waterfall, plunges 135 metres into a stream-eroded gorge. The park in which the falls sits is 26 hectares. It is a beautifully peaceful setting.
The looped trail from the park to the falls is less than one kilometre and, it's an easy walk on a well-maintained path. The vegetation is lush and there are multiple viewpoints along the way. There are wild orchids, bamboo groves, and draping ferns. Simply stunning!
One of the cool natural landscapes on the Big Island is the black sand. We headed south from the Falls to Punalu'u Black Sand Beach. We'd never seen a beach like this before so we were fascinated by it!
Punalu'u is not a beach for swimming, but there is a picnic area and restroom and it's a lovely place to explore. It certainly was a unique experience for us, to wander around a black sand beach. The black sand is made of basalt and was created by lava flowing into the ocean which explodes as it reaches the ocean and cools. Awesome!
We were lucky enough to see several giant turtles. What an incredible experience to see these magnificent creatures up close. They are Hawaiian green sea turtles, and they are a protected species. Apparently, visitors must stay at least 3 metres away from them, as they are protected by law.
Oh, and we visited the southernmost bakery in the United States for a late light lunch.
We were right at the bottom of the Big Island! The coastline is rather pretty. As the Kaʻu side of the island is exposed to strong ocean currents, the coastline is more about the stunning scenery than swimming and lying on the beach.
Our next Big Island experience was the incredible Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, first established in 1916 by President Woodrow Wilson and covering 135 000 hectares. The park extends 4145 metres from the sea and is home to two of the world's most active volcanoes - Mauna Loa and Kilauea. There are lava tube caves, cultural sites representing six centuries of Hawaiian habitation, and a plethora of native flora and fauna species. The park is a designated International Biosphere Reserve and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Its history is closely linked with Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of volcanoes, whom legend says created the Hawaiian Islands through the destructive force of volcanic activity.
There's a visitor's centre at Kilauea for information on the park and its features. There are guided tours but we followed the park map and explored Crater Rim Drive on our own. There's an entrance fee per car which is $30USD at the time of writing. Here we are exploring the super cool lava tube caves formed 500 years ago.
As if the lava tube caves weren't cool enough, then we walked on hardened lava! It was just randomly on the side of the road as we drove around the park.
We drove further then spotted cars parked along the road. We got out and walked for a bit and came upon more lava. [And yes, it is quite a walk from the parking spot to the lava. But totally worth it!]
The kids had an absolute ball walking on the lava. Such a cool experience for them. The lava is an incredible sight; it's hard to comprehend it all.
Later, we stumbled across some mind-blowing geothermal activity. We just had to get out of the car and wander around. What an incredible display of Planet Earth's inner workings! We were there just at the right time of the day, too, to witness the geothermal activity as the sun was setting. Just look at my wonderful photos!
We stayed for the evening show of the active volcano. There's a viewing area some distance from the volcano. The best view is at night, as the bubbling volcano can be seen juxtaposed against the darkness, even from some distance away. All volcanic activity is monitored and relevant areas are closed to visitors if not safe. We were so lucky to see the live volcano that evening.
Visiting the park remains one of the most incredible things I have done. It's absolutely worth the trek from Oahu. It is humbling to see such a powerful display of nature.
We had a huge first day on the Big Island and ended up at our hotel on the western side of the island at Kona late into the evening as it was a long drive from the park. We couldn't find anywhere to stop for dinner that was open so we ended up falling into bed and refuelling at the vast buffet breakfast the next morning. I'm not usually picky about accommodation and I always book cheap-ish places, but the hotel was the worst one I've ever stayed in, really only because it was...well...not very nice. That said, it was only for one night and the views from the breakfast room were gorgeous.
We were due to fly back to Honolulu in the evening of the second day but we continued our trek around the island, stopping for more lava exploration. Here we are at the Ala Mauka Makai Trail.
There are loads of beaches on the island. Here we are at Hapuna Beach on the west coast. It was much less crowded than Waikiki and a beautiful protected beach that is perfect for families.
We drove further north after our swim at Hapuna Beach, and we were treated to more stunning scenery. The sun seemed to have gone away, though!
Lunch was in Kapa'au, right at the top of the island, in an adorably island-y café with a King Kamehameha statue out front.
We explored more of the island's dramatic scenery back down the eastern side to the airport at Hilo as the weather turned a little cold and cloudy later in the day. The rugged coastline sure is spectacular!
This sign was one of our final glimpses of The Big Island before we headed back to the airport to drop the car off. It had been a whirlwind two days, but we'd had an incredible diverse experience. What a cool way to celebrate our actual 20th wedding anniversary!
I couldn't recommend Hawaii more for an experience of incredible natural beauty and historical and cultural significance. I'd love to go back again and explore the islands I haven't yet visited. As I have said numerous times in this post, hire a car and make sure to venture outside of Honolulu. We absolutely made the most of our two weeks and we'll always have the best memories of the trip and all the cool things we saw and did.
This was my second trip to Hawaii and the thrill of being somewhere completely new and different was a little dimmed, but this one and only international holiday we had together as a family will always be important to all of us. The trip was the last big family holiday we all took together.
The memories that we made. The kids were turning 15 and 13 respectively and were at the perfect age to appreciate the experience and absorb the beautiful landscapes and fascinating history of the islands.
I’m super proud of how they embraced everything and appreciated the experience.
We also just had a lot of fun!
All the cool things we did, but especially the Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island, hiking at Koko Head and Lanikai, and the immersive Pearl Harbour experience.
The hikes: While I am pretty fit, I am not very physically capable. This was three years before I was diagnosed with a benign brain tumour that affected my hearing and balance. The confidence I gained from the hikes we did was a huge boost for me.
The diverse, beautiful landscapes of both islands: The trip cemented my love for natural spaces and how they make me feel at peace.
Our food and supermarket fascination: Ben and Jerry's! Yogurtland! American portions!
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